Entrelac

From a request on YouTube, this meant to go along with a set of 4 videos describing how to knit Entrelac.

Entrelac is a knitting method that involves building squares and triangles off of other squares and triangles by implementing the use of short rows, increases, decreases and picking up stitches. It's easy to learn, easy to memorize and gives a really pretty, woven fabric result. Yes, it sounds complected, but it's really not. Like all knitting things, it's nothing to fear- it's just tricks with sticks and string. :)

Each triangle and square is based off a set number of stitches that you choose, so it's very customizable. In the video example, I'm going to use 5 stitches for each element- it will go quickly and still have a nice chunky look. Of course, you can use 10 stitches or 30 stitches or 3 stitches- it your project!

I'm going to assume that you know how to cast on, knit, purl, increase and decrease. As I will be demonstrating the use of short rows in the video, prior knowledge isn't required, and I'll explain more about them in . Of course, I can go over basics if anyone desires. Just ask :)

Quick explanation of short rows: Only knitting a portion of the row of knitting before turning your work and knitting the opposite direction. So, if you have 20 stitches on your needle, and you only knit 10 before flipping your work over and purling 10, you've done a short row. This sort of thing is used to create structure and shape in garments or, like in the case of entralac, only working one element at a time.

In this example, I'm using Worsted Weight yarn on US size 8 straight needles (I prefer straights on small projects), for the curious.

I casted on 20 stitches, but you can cast on any multiple of 5 you want for this example.

Foundation triangles:


row 1: P1, turn
row 2: K1, turn

row 3: P2, turn
row 4: K2, turn

row 5: P3, turn
row 6: K3, turn

row 7: P4, turn
row 8: K4. turn
row 9: P5. DO NOT TURN

At this point, you'll have your first foundation triangle done and be ready to go to the next triangle. You're going to repeat the first 9 rows until you've worked all the stitches on the left needle. The important thing to remember is when you're starting your next triangle, the K1 on the first row of the new triangle is going to be separate from the old triangle you just worked. It sounds weird, but it makes sense in the video and when you're doing it.

First Tier Triangles and Squares:

After completing the final foundation triangle, turn your work.

At this point, your triangles and squares will interact more with each other. You're going to be using a lot of decrease stitches to connect previously-worked triangles and squares together. It's not nearly as complicated as it sounds and will make a lot of sense while doing it.

Right triangle:

We'll be using increases and decreases here. 

KFB- Knit Front and Back. Increase by one stitch by knitting in the front and back of the stitch before slipping to the right needle.
SSK- Slip, slip, knit. Slip 2 knitwise, then knit both stitches from right needle.


Row 1 KFB, turn
Row 2: P2, turn
Row 3: KFB, SSK, turn
Row 4: P3, turn
Row 5: KFB, K1, SSK, turn
Row 6: P4, turn
Row 7: KFB, K2, SSK, turn
Row 8: P5, turn
Row 9: K4, SSK, DO NOT TURN

Square:

There aren't any increases, but you will be decreasing and picking up stitches. This is how I pick up stitches. There's more than one way to do this, but I've found this to be the most tear-free and cleanest way for me.


You're also going to use the decreasing to attach a previously-worked element to the square you're working on currently. In the SSK in this square, you're going to slip the last stitch from the current square and the first stitch from the square/ triangle that you're attaching and knitting them together- it's how you get the woven entrelac look.


Pick up 5 stitches on the side of the foundation triangle/ square next to the triangle/ square you just worked and turn.

Row 1: P5, turn
Row 2: K4, SSK. turn

Repeat rows one and two until all 5 stitches from the old square/ triangle have been worked into the new square. Then, repeat until all the stitches on the left needle have been worked.

Left triangle: 

Just like with the center squares, pick up 5 stitches.

Row 1: P5, turn
Row 2: K4, SSK, turn
Row 3: P5, turn
Row 4: K3, SSK, turn
Row 5: P4, turn
Row 6: K2, SSK, turn
Row 7: P3, turn
Row 8: K1, SSK, turn
Row 9: P2, turn
Row 10: SSK, turn
Row 11, P1, Don't turn

Here is where you'll begin the 2nd Tier- the remaining stitch on your right needle is the first stitch of the 1st square of the 2nd tier.

Second Tier

The 2nd tier is a lot like the 1st; you'll be picking up stitches and using decreases to attach new elements to old. The only differences is that you'll be doing all of your decreases purl-wise instead of knit and you don't create triangles on either end of the tier.

Square One

The only difference between this square and the other squares is how many stitches you pick up. The remaining stitch will be the first stitch of this square.

Pick up 4 stitches along inside of triangle.

Row 1: K5, turn
Row 2: P4, P2tog, turn 


Repeat rows 1 and 2 until all the stitches on the lower square have been worked.

Remaining Squares

Pick up 5 stitches

Row 1: K5, turn
Row 2: P4, P2tog, turn

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until all the stitches on the lower square have been worked.

Repeat the directions for the Remaining Square until all the stitches from the working needle have been worked and moved to the right needle.

Repeat both tiers until you reach the desired length, ending with tier one. Finish with the Finishing Triangles.

Finishing Triangles

 
Pick up 4 stitches
Row 1: P4, move last stitch to left needle, P2tog, turn
Row 2: K3, SSK, turn 
Row 3: P3, P2tog, turn
Row 3: K2, SSK, turn
Row 4: P2, P2tog, turn
Row 5: K1, SSK, turn
Row 6, P1, P2tog, turn
Row 7: SSK, turn
Row 8: P2tog, do not turn

Repeat this section until all but one stitch from the left needle is worked. 

Break yarn, weave in ends.