I Suck at Relaxing

Pretty much what the title says.

The last 3-ish years I've worked non-stop at....something. Either graphic designing, my part time job, the various things that have cropped up in my personal life..something. Everything. All the time. The things that have made me happy have kind of gone to the wayside. Not that my work doesn't make me happy, but it's WORK. I've not read, cooked, gone on a photo hunt or knit nearly as much as I'd like. Somethings, I've not done at all. Hell, I can't even remember the last time I took out my Canon for anything other than work. I'm so tired by the time I've finished with whatever it is I'm doing, I have no desire to do anything else than sleep or watch TV while falling asleep. I've taken to reading the news on my phone as I fall asleep so I have some idea of the world outside my bubble.

I miss photography! I *like* doing those videos! I like showing people how to do things. I like finding beauty in something that wouldn't normally get noticed and preserving it in a photo. I like reading. Coming up with a new food dish is amazing and rewarding. The problem now is I've gotten really bad about relaxing and allowing myself to do these things.

For a while I was dealing with my father's terminal illness from 3000 miles away. While that was happening, I was, for a time, the primary breadwinner in the house. Then a small health thing of my own (I'm fine. I'm also a lot thinner and no longer have high blood pressure or prediabetes! Yay!). Now, things have stabilized and I really don't know what to do with myself. We went on a long weekend holiday to the beach last month (gotta love living in Florida) and I honestly couldn't sit still. It was literally the first time in years that not only did I have nothing to get done, I didn't NEED to get anything done. I was on vacation from my part time job and my design clients knew I was out of town. I had free time and lots of it and had a hard time enjoying it because I felt I had to be doing something. So, there was a lot of walking and searching out restaurants, but not any sitting on the beach and reading, which is a shame in retrospect.

Last week I realized that this was no way to live. So, I decided to start slowly and allow myself time off during the week where I allow myself to relax. I learned to knit and crochet 12 years ago to give my restless hands something to do while I relaxed (there seems to be a theme), so I dusted off a sock project that I had stopped a year and a half ago and started it up again. It allowed me to actually watch the TV show I had turned on without relentlessly checking my email or doing something work-related. And, I feel better. And I have another pair of socks on the horizon!

So, I'm going to finish this pair of socks. Then, I'm going to find that yellow striped glove and make a video about doing the thumb that people have been asking about for 2 years. Then, I'm going to do another video on something else. I don't know about what, yet. Possibly socks or cabling. It doesn't matter! When it stops being Florida cold, I'll go hiking, too. Because I can and should. :)

-S

PS- This was very stream of conscious, so apologies for the awkwardness in writing.

Knitting a Glove without a Pattern

I had a commenter ask how to make my Fingerless Gloves for smaller hands. I was going to just size down the pattern, but I think you would benefit more from me showing you how I usually do gloves. You see, unless it's something unusual, I won't use a pattern. Same with socks, but that's a different post for another time. That's the beauty of knitting; once you see how you can construct something and the formula for it, you can pretty much do anything. Patterns are nice, but what makes a strong knitter isn't always the ability to follow a pattern, but to be able to improvise!

The basic things you see in the videos still are relevant; you still cast on and knit the cuff the same way. You still do the thumb increase the same way and still stop knitting in the round at the top of the hand the same way. This is just to show how I do all these things without using a pattern.

1. First step is figuring out gauge. Knit out a swatch about 2 inches wide and measure how many stitches per inch you're getting with that yarn and needle combo. This step is important on any garment where fit is an issue. Even if you frog the swatch to reuse the yarn for your project, don't underestimate the power of the gauge swatch.
2. Once you know how many stitches per inch, measure around your hand with a soft tape measure.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   If you look at the illustration, roughly where the red line is, but going all the way around your hand. Multiply how many inches around your hand is with how many stitches per inch you figured out in step one. Round up or down (whichever is closest) to a number divisible by 4 and cast on that number. For example, if you have 5 stitches per inch and you have a 5-inch hand circumference, you'd have 25. The closest divisible-by-4 number is 24, so you'd cast on 24 stitches. Of course, you also divide the stitches evenly on DPNs and use a marker to mark the beginning of the row. This will make for a very form-fitting glove. If you want something looser, cast on an additional 4-8 stitches.
3. To knit a glove like the original pattern, start knitting in a 2x2 rib (2k2p) until you've reached a cuff length that you'd like. I usually go with 2-3 inches as I'm a larger-framed person, but you can make it as long or as short as you'd like. 
4. Once you've gotten your cuff finished, knit 2 rows of stockinette (all knit). Then, at the beginning of the next row, you're going to start your thumb increase. This does not vary from the video save for the amount of stitches used.
   
   
     
   
   
5. Basically, the way to do the gloves doesn't vary from the videos at this point. You do everything the same way, but with different stitches. The only thing that will change is the fingers in that you probably won't use the same number of stitches as I did if you have a smaller hand.
6. If you're not inclined to visually estimate the circumference of each finger, measure as you did before with your soft tape measure around the thickest part of each finger to figure out how many stitches each one needs.

I am fully aware that this is a very short tutorial. I will happily answer any questions you have about this, but don't be afraid of this! If you're used to riding a bike with training wheels, it's only scary when you first take them off but then it's like you were born for it. :)

Here are the other videos in the series for reference:

Could it be?

A new project?? Say it ain't so!

Phone app test

Hmm

 Edit: Google, you are weird. I made this as a test post and never saw it show up. Right. 

World, meet Zoot Cat, knitting cat.

:)

So, I have followers now.

*waves*

Fingerless Gloves

(I promise you'll see some videos be next weekend. <3)


ETA 7/4- Okay. So, by "next weekend" I apparently meant a couple months later. Life got in the way! But, it's all updated now. :)

______
The trickiest part of gloves, fingerless or not, are the fingers. Assuming that you aren't making gloves that look like this, of course. That's relative, however because it looks a lot harder than it looks.

The skills needed for this are increasing, decreasing, casting on, knitting in the round and picking up stitches. I'm going to assume that there is already a small practical understanding of knitting on DPNs, so I'm not going to go into the basics of it in the videos. Of course, I will happily do a separate video if requested. :)

I love my DPNs, but you can use magic loop for this if you want. I like using 5 DPNs (4 holding the yarn and one working needle) and adding a 6th while doing the thumb increase to keep the strain on the stitches at a minimum..

Onward!



Rolled Fingered "Hobo" Gloves

These are fingerless gloves with rolled ends for some visual interest. If you don't want rolled ends, work the fingers with a 1x1 rib instead of stockinette.

I used sock yarn w/ 2.25mm DPNs and had a gauge of 6 stitches per inch allowing for a 2-inch ease.

CO 64 stitches (I used a long-tailed cast on).

(begin cuff)

Distribute stitches evenly on each needle and join to work in the round.
Work 2x2 rib until desired length.

Row 1-4: Knit stockinette.

(begin thumb increase)

Row 5: KFB, K3, KFB, K to end of round.
Row 6: Knit stockinette
Row 7: KFB, K5, KFB, K to end.
Row 8: Knit stockinette
Row 9: KFB, K7, KFB, K to end

Continue growing thumb increase by 2 stitches every other round until glove comes up to the first thumb knuckle.

When you are satisfied with the thumb increase size, transfer thumb stitches to waste yarn instead of knitting them.

(begin rest of hand)

Close the gap by C/O 5 stitches (so you have 16 stitches on each needle again) and continuing to knit in the round.

Continue knitting stockinette in the round until the glove comes up to the bottom of your fingers.

Transfer all stitches, except the 21 above the thumb.

(note: if you don't want a cropped finger style glove, you can keep knitting in the round until the glove goes halfway up your fingers and bind off)

(begin fingers)

Index Finger

Arrange the first 21 stitches on 2-3 needles. Knit the 21 stitches.

C/O 5 stitches (will span across the middle of the glove) and knit finger in the round until you get to the first knuckle and bind off loosely. Cut yarn.

Middle Finger and Ring Finger

Transfer 7 stitches on each side of the glove to your needles, P/U 7 stitches from previous finger, C/O 5 stitches. Knit in round. Bind off.

Pinky Finger

Transfer remaining stitches to needles and pick up 7 stitches from previous finger. Knit in round to desired length, bind off.

Thumb


Transfer all stitches from the thumb to needles, and pick up 8 stitches from the casted-on stitches on the main part of the glove. However many needles you use, the beginning of the round will be from the first picked up stitch. This is important for the decreases.

Row 1: Knit to end of round
Row 2: SSK, K4, K2Tog, K to end
Row 3: Knit to end of round
Row 4 SSK, K2, K2Tog, K to end
Row 5: Knit to end of round
Row 6: SSK, K2Tog, K to end
Row 7: Knit to end of round
Row 8: K2Tog, K to end
Row 10 to end: Knit around

Note: try on the glove at row 8. If the thumb is a little large, keep up the K2tog every other round for another 2-4 decreases as needed.

Bind off when desired length is reached. Weave in ends. Knit other glove before your other hand gets cold.

Entrelac

From a request on YouTube, this meant to go along with a set of 4 videos describing how to knit Entrelac.

Entrelac is a knitting method that involves building squares and triangles off of other squares and triangles by implementing the use of short rows, increases, decreases and picking up stitches. It's easy to learn, easy to memorize and gives a really pretty, woven fabric result. Yes, it sounds complected, but it's really not. Like all knitting things, it's nothing to fear- it's just tricks with sticks and string. :)

Each triangle and square is based off a set number of stitches that you choose, so it's very customizable. In the video example, I'm going to use 5 stitches for each element- it will go quickly and still have a nice chunky look. Of course, you can use 10 stitches or 30 stitches or 3 stitches- it your project!

I'm going to assume that you know how to cast on, knit, purl, increase and decrease. As I will be demonstrating the use of short rows in the video, prior knowledge isn't required, and I'll explain more about them in . Of course, I can go over basics if anyone desires. Just ask :)

Quick explanation of short rows: Only knitting a portion of the row of knitting before turning your work and knitting the opposite direction. So, if you have 20 stitches on your needle, and you only knit 10 before flipping your work over and purling 10, you've done a short row. This sort of thing is used to create structure and shape in garments or, like in the case of entralac, only working one element at a time.

In this example, I'm using Worsted Weight yarn on US size 8 straight needles (I prefer straights on small projects), for the curious.

I casted on 20 stitches, but you can cast on any multiple of 5 you want for this example.

Foundation triangles:


row 1: P1, turn
row 2: K1, turn

row 3: P2, turn
row 4: K2, turn

row 5: P3, turn
row 6: K3, turn

row 7: P4, turn
row 8: K4. turn
row 9: P5. DO NOT TURN

At this point, you'll have your first foundation triangle done and be ready to go to the next triangle. You're going to repeat the first 9 rows until you've worked all the stitches on the left needle. The important thing to remember is when you're starting your next triangle, the K1 on the first row of the new triangle is going to be separate from the old triangle you just worked. It sounds weird, but it makes sense in the video and when you're doing it.

First Tier Triangles and Squares:

After completing the final foundation triangle, turn your work.

At this point, your triangles and squares will interact more with each other. You're going to be using a lot of decrease stitches to connect previously-worked triangles and squares together. It's not nearly as complicated as it sounds and will make a lot of sense while doing it.

Right triangle:

We'll be using increases and decreases here. 

KFB- Knit Front and Back. Increase by one stitch by knitting in the front and back of the stitch before slipping to the right needle.
SSK- Slip, slip, knit. Slip 2 knitwise, then knit both stitches from right needle.


Row 1 KFB, turn
Row 2: P2, turn
Row 3: KFB, SSK, turn
Row 4: P3, turn
Row 5: KFB, K1, SSK, turn
Row 6: P4, turn
Row 7: KFB, K2, SSK, turn
Row 8: P5, turn
Row 9: K4, SSK, DO NOT TURN

Square:

There aren't any increases, but you will be decreasing and picking up stitches. This is how I pick up stitches. There's more than one way to do this, but I've found this to be the most tear-free and cleanest way for me.


You're also going to use the decreasing to attach a previously-worked element to the square you're working on currently. In the SSK in this square, you're going to slip the last stitch from the current square and the first stitch from the square/ triangle that you're attaching and knitting them together- it's how you get the woven entrelac look.


Pick up 5 stitches on the side of the foundation triangle/ square next to the triangle/ square you just worked and turn.

Row 1: P5, turn
Row 2: K4, SSK. turn

Repeat rows one and two until all 5 stitches from the old square/ triangle have been worked into the new square. Then, repeat until all the stitches on the left needle have been worked.

Left triangle: 

Just like with the center squares, pick up 5 stitches.

Row 1: P5, turn
Row 2: K4, SSK, turn
Row 3: P5, turn
Row 4: K3, SSK, turn
Row 5: P4, turn
Row 6: K2, SSK, turn
Row 7: P3, turn
Row 8: K1, SSK, turn
Row 9: P2, turn
Row 10: SSK, turn
Row 11, P1, Don't turn

Here is where you'll begin the 2nd Tier- the remaining stitch on your right needle is the first stitch of the 1st square of the 2nd tier.

Second Tier

The 2nd tier is a lot like the 1st; you'll be picking up stitches and using decreases to attach new elements to old. The only differences is that you'll be doing all of your decreases purl-wise instead of knit and you don't create triangles on either end of the tier.

Square One

The only difference between this square and the other squares is how many stitches you pick up. The remaining stitch will be the first stitch of this square.

Pick up 4 stitches along inside of triangle.

Row 1: K5, turn
Row 2: P4, P2tog, turn 


Repeat rows 1 and 2 until all the stitches on the lower square have been worked.

Remaining Squares

Pick up 5 stitches

Row 1: K5, turn
Row 2: P4, P2tog, turn

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until all the stitches on the lower square have been worked.

Repeat the directions for the Remaining Square until all the stitches from the working needle have been worked and moved to the right needle.

Repeat both tiers until you reach the desired length, ending with tier one. Finish with the Finishing Triangles.

Finishing Triangles

 
Pick up 4 stitches
Row 1: P4, move last stitch to left needle, P2tog, turn
Row 2: K3, SSK, turn 
Row 3: P3, P2tog, turn
Row 3: K2, SSK, turn
Row 4: P2, P2tog, turn
Row 5: K1, SSK, turn
Row 6, P1, P2tog, turn
Row 7: SSK, turn
Row 8: P2tog, do not turn

Repeat this section until all but one stitch from the left needle is worked. 

Break yarn, weave in ends.